Copenhagen. CPH. The food capital of the Nordics. The burial place of Hans Christian Andersen. And of course the home to HAY, Normann Copenhagen, Wood Wood, Bang & Olufsen, Norse Projects, Georg Jensen, Rains and LEGO.
That’s not to mention the wonderful hanging street lamps, one of which graces the top of this page.
You can’t talk about Copenhagen though without talking about the food. And nobody can argue that the smørrebrød from Ol + Brod above these words doesn’t look pretty damn good. It tasted as good as it looked as well. And that went for most of what we ate. Look at this porridge. It’s a work of art. That’s from Grød, which is on the oh so very cool Jægersborggade. It’s the same road as you’ll find Relae (by Noma alumni Christian Puglisi), Coffee Collective, Meyers Bageri and plenty more to keep you eating.
Other highlights, away from Jægersborggade, included the orangery set Mielcke + Hurtigkarl (with a sommelier who could have easily come straight from a Coen Brothers film), avocado on toast specialists Atelier September and burger champions YOBURGER.
Enough about food though, so let’s talk clothes. The majority of the good clothes shops are found centrally. As well as Illum department store, which holds every Danish brand you can think of, there are offerings from Wood Wood, Ganni, Won Hundred and Han Kjøbenhavn, plus Scandi staples like Cos, Weekday and & Other Stories.
I’m a huge Norse Projects fan at the best of times, and the two Norse Stores in Copenhagen are well worth a visit. On the left you’ve got women, and on the right you’ve got men. Both stock a lot more than just Norse Projects with A.P.C., Our Legacy and Commes des Garcons among the brands represented. It’s a Norse Store though, and I had to come away with a classic white Oxford shirt from the title brand.
Just over the road is Acne Studios. It was our first port of call as Caitlin had had her eye on a scarf for a long time. It’s a beautifully designed store, which guides you naturally around its curves, giving you the chance to take in their stock.
Danish design is the best design. You’re not going to want for chances to pick up the latest Normann Copenhagen lamp or the iconic HAY DLM side table. Not only are they in half the shops, they’re in all the apartments. Our Airbnb was a bit like walking into a HAY shop. You can also see plenty of these items at the aptly named Designmuseum Danmark. As well as taking you through the history of Danish design, including the oriental influence on it, there are two rooms with nothing but chairs. Let me repeat that… two large rooms of nothing but Danish chairs, from mid-century to today. Amazing.
Further afield, and if you’ve got time, it is worth the forty minute train journey to get to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Featuring work from Warhol, Lichtenstein, Hockney and Picasso the inside is good enough on its own, but add the sculpture garden and you’ve got a really great museum. The garden has works from Moore, Calder, Miro and more dotted around. It also gives you a great view of Niva Bugt bay one way, and the awesome Louisiana building the other.
There is so much more to do on top of what I’ve spoken about here. Including the beer. Oh my god the beer. Get yourself to Mikkeller and Warpigs to name just two. We didn’t get to walk up the Round Tower, eat breakfast at Dyrehaven or even visit Tivoli. There are poster museums and cocktail bars that we have to make it to next time.
Go to Copenhagen, eat food, shop, and take plenty of photos.